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I’ve mentioned before how much I enjoy being a home inspector, to the point that you may wonder if there is anything about inspections that I don’t like.
There is: like any job, home inspections are not always sunshine and roses, and near the top of my list is being inside someone’s personal space. I’m very conscious of the fact that a house is much more than a collection of drywall, wood, asphalt, vinyl and mechanical systems. It is someone’s home: a place to relax after a long day, raise a family, keep their belongings and make memories. Fortunately, I’ve developed the ability to focus almost entirely on the house itself. I can walk through a home surrounded by personal belongings, someone could leave a sack of money sitting on the kitchen table and I would probably never notice it. Unfortunately, not everyone has that ability. Some people deliberately enter homes to take things that don't belong to them. While the stereotypical image of a burglar is someone dressed in dark clothing, sneaking around at night, the reality is that there is no particular "look" for someone who may be attempting to gain access to a home. Someone who appears to be a delivery driver, contractor, service technician or even a prospective customer can potentially attract much less attention than someone who obviously looks out of place. That is one reason why basic home security is worth thinking about, even if you live in a quiet neighbourhood and have never experienced a break-in. Here are a few things I recommend homeowners consider: Check Hinges on Outward Swinging Doors Most people think of a door being forced open as the primary way someone might defeat it. However, an exterior door that swings outward can present a different concern if its hinges are accessible from outside. I have encountered outward-swinging exterior doors on homes, particularly at garages and secondary entrances. Depending on the hinge design, an improperly secured door may be considerably easier to tamper with than one where the hinges are protected. If you have an exterior door that swings outward, take a look at the hinges and determine whether the door has appropriate security features to prevent the hinge pins from simply being removed. There are several ways this can be addressed, depending on the door and hardware. If you aren't sure whether yours is adequately secured, a qualified locksmith or door professional can take a look. Cut Back Shrubbery There is no stereotypical burglar. If someone approaches your home claiming to be a contractor, utility worker, delivery person or service provider, that doesn't automatically mean there is anything suspicious happening, but you also don't have to assume that everyone who shows up at your door is legitimate. If you're expecting someone, verify their identity through the company they claim to represent. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Remember that legitimate service providers should generally be comfortable identifying themselves. As a home inspector, for example, I am typically identifiable as representing Inside Edge through my company clothing and/or vehicle. I take my clients' privacy seriously. With only extremely rare exceptions involving legal requirements or immediate life-safety concerns, I don't discuss a client's home, belongings or inspection findings with other people. I see an increasing trend of a small number of realtors and inspectors going online and making fun of what they see in homes and I flat out refuse to engage in that activity. Don't Live In Fear Home security doesn't have to mean turning your house into a fortress or constantly worrying about who might be watching. Most of us go about our daily lives without ever experiencing a residential break-in, and I certainly don't want to encourage people to become unnecessarily fearful of their own homes. But a few simple habits: keeping doors and windows properly secured, maintaining visibility around the property, being aware of unexpected visitors and keeping an inventory of important belongings can make sense regardless of where you live. Many years ago when I was working in a retail store, the head of security for the company gave me a piece of advice that has stuck with me: "There is no need to live in fear, but there are plenty of reasons to live with caution." I think that's pretty good advice for homeowners too.
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Note: this is an update to blog post I wrote in 2021 but little has changed since then. We are fortunate in Nova Scotia to have countless dedicated fire departments working to protect our lives and property. I am comfortable with the level of fire protection we have in Halifax and sleep easier knowing we have highly trained professionals ready to respond when we need them. But there is an important reality that every homeowner should understand: a fire department cannot always arrive in time to save a home. Once a fire becomes established, conditions can deteriorate incredibly quickly. Modern homes can also present a particularly challenging environment for firefighters. The synthetic materials commonly found in modern construction, furnishings and household contents can produce significant amounts of heat and toxic smoke and can contribute to fires developing much more rapidly than they did decades ago. Even materials such as oriented strand board (OSB), which is commonly used in modern construction, are combustible. That is why having a basic fire safety plan (and knowing how to use a fire extinguisher) is so important. Understanding Fire Classes in 1 Minute Fires are classified according to the type of material that is burning. In Canada, the common classifications you are most likely to encounter are: Class A – Ordinary combustibles such as wood, paper, cardboard and cloth. Class B – Flammable or combustible liquids such as gasoline, oil, paint and grease. Class C – Fires involving energized electrical equipment. Once the electrical source is disconnected, the fire is classified according to the material actually burning. Class D – Combustible metals. These are generally associated with specialized industrial applications and are not something most homeowners need to worry about. There is also Class K, which is used primarily for commercial cooking operations involving cooking oils and fats. Residential kitchens generally do not require a specialized Class K extinguisher. Fortunately, you do not need a collection of different extinguishers for a typical home. A properly rated ABC dry-chemical extinguisher is suitable for the types of fires most likely to occur in a residence, including many fires involving energized electrical equipment. Where Should You Keep an Extinguishers As someone who has assisted with teaching proper fire-extinguisher operation and who has inspected hundreds of properties (and seen fire damage firsthand), one thing that continues to concern me is the lack of basic fire protection I see in many houses. If I even see one at all, it is not unusual to find a home with only one extinguisher and sometimes that extinguisher is decades old, poorly maintained, inaccessible or located in a questionable location. Personally, I keep multiple ABC extinguishers in my home rather than relying on a single extinguisher. They are located:
The important thing is not the exact number of extinguishers but having an appropriate extinguisher readily accessible where a small fire could start, without putting yourself in danger to retrieve it. For example, you don't want to have to walk through a burning kitchen to reach the extinguisher that is mounted beside the kitchen stove. Don't Try to Be a Hero! The single biggest takeaway from this article is simple: Save the heroics for the movies. A fire that appears small can become dangerous very quickly. If you decide to attempt to extinguish a fire, it should only be when the fire is small and contained, you have a clear and immediate escape route, everyone else is getting out, and you are confident you can do so safely. Learn the PASS technique: P – Pull the pin. A – Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire, not the top of the flames. S – Squeeze the handle. S – Sweep the nozzle from side to side across the base of the fire. Never turn your back on a fire, and always maintain a clear escape route behind you. If the extinguisher does not put the fire out almost immediately, leave. You only have seconds (not minutes) before smoke can become overwhelming or disorienting near an out of control fire. Also remember that a fire that appears to be extinguished can reignite. I learned this firsthand, and it is one reason I strongly recommend that homeowners never assume a fire is completely dealt with simply because the flames are no longer visible. Have a Fire Escape Plan A fire extinguisher is only one part of fire safety. Make sure your home has working smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms where required, and test them regularly. Everyone in the household should know at least two ways out of sleeping areas where possible and should know where to meet outside. Most importantly, practice your escape plan. It may feel silly to conduct a fire drill in your own home, particularly with older children or adults, but when a real fire occurs it is not the time to figure out who is going where. Get out. Stay out. Call 911. Even if you manage to extinguish a fire yourself, calling the fire department is still important. A fire can extend into concealed spaces and continue smoldering long after the visible flames are gone. Your first priority should always be getting yourself and your family to safety, not saving your belongings or your house. If you do not have a suitable, accessible fire extinguisher in your home, consider picking one up today. Make sure you know what it is rated for, that everyone in the household knows where it is located, and that it is maintained according to the manufacturer's instructions. A fire extinguisher may never be needed but if you ever do need one, you will be very glad you have it and even more glad that you know when not to use it. A fire extinguisher is a tool, not a substitute for getting out safely. Most home inspection websites have a Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) section covering the basics: What is a home inspection? Can I attend? (Absolutely!) How long does it take? (Most inspections are around 2 to 2.5 hours on site, depending on the home.) Do home inspectors tell you whether to buy a house? (No, that decision is always yours.)
Those are important questions, but over the years I've noticed there are a few interesting questions that almost nobody asks. Here are some of my favourites: Why Don’t You Offer Short Term Radon Tests? In other words: "Why don't you offer the quick 48-hour test?" The simple answer is that I don't believe it provides my clients with the most reliable information. Although I have the training to perform radon testing, Health Canada recommends long-term testing—ideally between 3 and 12 months, with a minimum of 90 days during the heating season—to accurately determine a home's average radon level. Radon concentrations naturally fluctuate from hour to hour and day to day based on weather, barometric pressure, ventilation, and how the home is used. Short-term tests can sometimes be useful in limited circumstances, but they should never be considered a substitute for a properly conducted long-term test. They also require strict "closed-house conditions," meaning windows must remain closed and exterior doors opened only as necessary. In the middle of a Nova Scotia summer (which is when the bulk of inspections are performed), that's not always practical or comfortable. While a 48-hour test is generally better than no test at all, it can produce misleading results. A falsely low reading may provide an unwarranted sense of security, while a high reading often needs to be confirmed with a longer test anyway. Rather than offering a service that may not provide meaningful answers, I prefer to recommend testing methods that give homeowners the most accurate information possible. What Does “Independent Home Inspector” Mean? People sometimes assume that being an "independent" inspector means being opposed to real estate agents. That couldn't be further from the truth. Many real estate professionals throughout Nova Scotia are dedicated advocates for their clients, just as I strive to be for mine. We often work together toward the same goal: helping buyers and sellers make informed decisions. Being independent simply means that I work for you, not for a real estate brokerage, contractor, or any other third party with an interest in the transaction. My responsibility is to provide an objective assessment of the home's condition without pressure to make a report more favourable (or more alarming) than the facts warrant. Whether I'm performing a pre-purchase inspection, a pre-listing inspection, or a maintenance inspection on the very same home, my observations and recommendations are consistent. The condition of the house doesn't change based on who hired me, and neither should the report. What’s the Most Interesting Personal Items or Décor You Have Seen in a Home? Honestly? Nothing I'd ever talk about. One of the things I take most seriously as a home inspector is respecting my clients' privacy. While I'm trained to carefully examine the home's systems and components, I'm equally careful to look past people's belongings. My focus is on the house, not the people living in it. In fact, if there were a way to temporarily make every piece of furniture and personal property disappear during an inspection, I'd be thrilled. It would certainly make my job easier! Several years ago, I read a news story about an inspector who found a homeowner's long-lost personal belongings while searching an attic. Many people saw it as a heartwarming story, but it raised an important professional issue for me. Home inspectors should avoid moving, opening, or searching through personal belongings unless it's absolutely necessary to inspect an accessible component of the home. If personal property prevents access to an area, I'll discuss it with the homeowner before proceeding rather than simply moving their belongings myself. Trust is Everything Inviting a home inspector into your home requires trust. Whether you're buying, selling, or simply maintaining your property, you're allowing someone you've likely just met to spend several hours examining one of your biggest investments. I never take that responsibility lightly. My goal is to provide an honest, thorough inspection while treating every home, and everything in it, with respect. I strive to leave nothing behind except a detailed inspection report and, hopefully, no evidence that I was ever there beyond the photographs needed to document the home's condition and occasionally some loose attic insulation. At the end of the day, home inspection isn't just about finding defects. It's about earning trust, providing clarity, and helping people make informed decisions with confidence. When my family purchased our home (and before I became the home inspector you know and love!), I would never have considered signing on the dotted line without having an independent inspector evaluate the property first. Yet over the years, I've met many homeowners who were hesitant about home inspections or questioned their value altogether.
What I discovered was that many people had either experienced a poor inspection in the past or knew someone who had. In some cases, inspectors lacked the technical knowledge needed to identify significant issues that might not be immediately apparent. In others, they failed to communicate their findings clearly and effectively, using industry jargon that few members of the general public know or understand. There is also considerable misunderstanding among first-time homebuyers about what a home inspection actually includes, and, just as importantly, what it does not. Here are a few of the most common criticisms I hear about home inspections and my perspective on each. "Home Inspectors are More Interested in Staying on the Good Side of Agents!" Ask most inspectors about this potential conflict of interest and they will deny it exists. Unfortunately, my experience suggests that it can happen far too frequently. Over the years, I've heard fellow inspectors privately express concerns about being labeled a "deal killer" or "alarmist" for reporting significant defects. The pressure to maintain positive relationships with agents can be real, particularly for inspectors who rely heavily on broker or agent referral networks. At Inside Edge Home Inspections, our philosophy is simple: our responsibility is to our client not to any transactions. While we certainly appreciate referrals from real estate professionals and others in the community, our reputation has been built on providing trusted, unbiased, and independent home inspections. Any agent or organization expecting us to soften a report or overlook concerns in order to help facilitate a sale is simply looking at the wrong company. A home inspection should provide you with the information they need to make an informed decision. Nothing more. Nothing less. "Just Hire an Electrician, Plumber, Roofer and/or Structural Engineer for an Hour Each" I hear this one all the time and while it's true that a team of specialists could provide a more in-depth assessment of their respective areas of expertise, especially on specialized homes such as older properties. However, coordinating multiple tradespeople to inspect a property: often within a short conditional period, on evenings or weekends, and at a reasonable cost is simply not practical or even possible for most buyers. Home inspectors are generalists by design. We evaluate the entire home as an interconnected system, considering how its major components work together and influence one another. While we are usually not electricians, plumbers, roofers, or engineers, we are trained to identify concerns across a broad range of building systems and recognize when further evaluation by a specialist is warranted. For most homeowners, a professional home inspection provides the best balance of value, convenience, and insight. It serves as a comprehensive overview of a property's condition and helps prioritize any areas that may require additional investigation. "I Can't Trust Home Inspectors: There are no Regulations in Nova Scotia!" This criticism is understandable. Nova Scotia remains one of several jurisdictions where home inspectors are not regulated and with no plans to do so. We tend to think of Canada as being more regulated than our neighbours to the south when in reality it is the opposite, with only British Columbia and Alberta being the exceptions. While many reputable inspectors also support higher professional standards and accountability within the industry, the reality is that anyone can market themselves as a home inspector regardless of their training, experience, or qualifications. This lack of regulation can make it difficult for consumers to distinguish between highly qualified professionals and those with limited knowledge or experience, often referred to as "fly by night" or "drive by" inspectors. The good news is that the marketplace tends to be unforgiving and I can tell you firsthand inspecting homes is both mentally and physically demanding. It requires a deep understanding of residential construction, building systems, communication, report writing, risk management, and customer service. Despite appearances, it is not an easy or high paying profession, and many individuals who enter the field without the necessary preparation do not remain in business for long, with current estimates being about 80% or more of new inspectors in Nova Scotia not making it 2 years. At Inside Edge, our company was not built overnight. Before launching, I spent years developing the knowledge, experience, and systems necessary to deliver the level of service I believed homeowners deserved. I strongly believe that clients should never have to pay for a professional who is still learning the fundamentals at their expense. You only get one opportunity to make a first impression, and from day one, our goal has been to build a reputation based on thoroughness, professionalism, and trust. A quality inspection isn't just about finding defects: it's about providing the knowledge and confidence needed to make informed decisions about one of the largest investments you'll ever make. Some homeowners are surprised when I tell them that I no longer offer mould testing as part of my home inspection services. At first glance, that might sound counterintuitive, especially since mould is something people naturally worry about when buying or selling a home. But after 5 years in the the home inspection industry (and working in Nova Scotia since 1999) I made the decision to stop offering mould testing because, in most situations, it provides very limited useful information and often creates more confusion than clarity. Does that mean that I think mould is harmless or overblown? Not at all! The reality is that mould spores are everywhere. They exist naturally in both indoor and outdoor environments, and virtually every home will have some level of airborne mould present at any given time. A single sample taken during a short inspection window only captures conditions at that exact moment in one specific location. Open a window, run the HVAC system, cook dinner, clean the floor, or change the weather outside, and the results can vary dramatically. This is one of the biggest misconceptions about mould testing: people often assume the results will tell them whether a house is “safe” or “unsafe.” In reality, even thorough testing cannot make that determination. Air sampling may identify spore types and concentrations, but it does not reliably tell you:
In many cases, the most important part of evaluating mould concerns has little to do with laboratory testing at all. A thorough visual inspection and moisture investigation are usually far more valuable. As inspectors, as part of our procedure we already look for the conditions that allow mould growth to occur:
There are also situations where specialized environmental testing may still make sense, particularly in cases involving significant water damage, medical sensitivities, legal disputes, or post-remediation verification. In those situations, I recommend working directly with an independent environmental consultant or industrial hygienist whose practice is dedicated specifically to indoor air quality assessment and can provide more valuable information. As a home inspector, my goal is to provide clients with practical, reliable information that helps them make informed decisions about a property. Over time, I found that routine mould testing often failed to meet that standard. By focusing instead on identifying moisture issues, building defects, and conditions conducive to mould growth, I believe I can provide more meaningful value to my clients and help them address the root causes rather than simply generating lab results. Put another way, I only offer services that offer better value than what I charge and mould testing does not pass that test. No matter how many inspections I add to my tally, one thing never changes: I see something new in almost every home I inspect. The last inspection I performed had an ETS heating system, something I had only seen in textbooks previously. What the Heck is an ETS? An Electric Thermal Storage (ETS) system is a type of electric heating that stores heat during off-peak hours: typically at night when electricity demand (and cost) is lower and releases that heat gradually throughout the day. Instead of generating heat on demand like traditional electric heaters, ETS systems “charge up” in advance and distribute warmth when it’s needed. At the core of an ETS system are high-density ceramic bricks. During off-peak hours, electricity heats these bricks to very high temperatures. The stored heat is then released in a controlled manner using fans or natural convection, keeping indoor spaces comfortable without drawing large amounts of electricity during peak times. Like any heating systems, there are benefits and drawbacks to this type of heater.
Compared to traditional baseboard heaters, ETS systems are clearly more cost-effective over time once the initial cost is paid off. How do they stand up against ductless mini-split heat pumps? It depends. ETS may be less efficient in mild climates but can outperform in extremely cold conditions where heat pump efficiency drops. In other words, it depends on where in Nova Scotia you live and how cold that specific winter is.
Electric Thermal Storage heating systems represent a thoughtful approach to energy use: shifting consumption to more efficient times while maintaining comfort throughout the day. While they require a higher initial investment, the long-term savings and environmental benefits make them a compelling option for many households. If you’re considering upgrading your heating system, ETS technology is worth a closer look, especially if you’re aiming to balance cost, comfort, and sustainability but they are not a panacea! To my knowledge, there are no building code regulations in either Halifax or Nova Scotia that require homeowners to install rain gutters, or eavestroughs if you prefer. This is consistent with my observations: a significant number of homes I inspect do not have gutters, whether it be missing on just on one side, over a portico, other small areas, or completely absent. Of course, just because I see nothing in my research doesn’t mean that I don’t consider them an essential part of a house. As I have said many times before: moisture is the #1 enemy of homes! We here in Nova Scotia live in one of Canada’s wettest areas (Halifax is the third wettest major population centre behind Prince Rupert BC and St. John's NL) and that water needs to be kept away from homes: not only will this help minimize the chance of a flooded basement but will help to protect against paint being damaged and reduce the opportunity for mold and mildew to grow and wood rot to occur. As a systematic home inspector in Halifax, I know that it is useless to just install gutters and call it a day as they require proper downspouts to be effective. Otherwise, the water will eventually just spill out over the side, and we are back at square one. Furthermore, just pouring a bunch of water in one area near the foundation can do more harm than good: it needs to be extended as far as reasonably possible: 4 feet is a good minimum but that can vary depending on topography. Rain gutters, contrary to popular belief, are not supposed to be installed level. While they may look straight from the ground, it is required to have a gentle slope towards the downspout to prevent water from pooling. They also need to be regularly cleaned, especially in areas with taller trees. I have performed plenty of inspections in rural areas where the gutter was nearly 100% clogged with foliage and was essentially useless: a regular eavestrough cleaning can also alert you to roofing issues, as when asphalt shingles begin to deteriorate granules can start to accumulate in the gutters. Furthermore, one needs to be aware of the slope of the property surrounding the structure. The simple fact is that without a properly graded lot, all the preventative measures in the world won’t do much good: the ground can only absorb so much water and with our rainy Spring season, water will travel towards a foundation and eventually inside a home if the lot is sloped that way. I did one inspection where the force of water coming off the roof compacted the ground and sloped the ground towards the foundation and while no flooding was detected, it is not a matter of if but when the basement ends up with unwanted water.
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link and a water control system needs to be properly installed and maintained regularly to be effective. Installing a fancy eavestrough system without considering all the points mentioned in this blog post is nothing but a significant waste of time and money. While this can be a DIY project (yours truly successfully installed a supplementary system at home) it is important to understand the science behind water flow and to follow manufacturer’s instructions. |
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